USA

Time Travel: Blackfeet Country, 1890s


“Walter McClintock graduated from Yale in 1891. In 1896 he traveled west as a photographer for a federal commission investigating national forests. McClintock became friends with the expedition’s Blackfoot Indian scout, William Jackson or Siksikakoan. When the commission completed its field work, Jackson introduced McClintock to the Blackfoot community of northwestern Montana. Over the next twenty years, supported by the Blackfoot elder Mad Wolf, McClintock made several thousand photographs of the Blackfoot, their homelands, their material culture, and their ceremonies.”

—Beinecke Rare Book and Manuscript Library

Photographs via the incredible Retronaut archive and the Beinecke Library album on Flickr.

And in case you missed them, a few other Time Travel posts:
Read more →

Time Travel: Alaska (1900-1930)


Not only a new place, but a strange, new time to get lost in.

One of my favourite quotes by Samuel Johnson goes like this:
“The use of travelling is to regulate imagination by reality, and instead of thinking how things may be, to see them as they are.”
And so I hope to dig in dusty corners (of the internet mostly) and see more clearly the places and people that have been populating my imagination all these years. I’ve done similarly themed posts in the past, but I think it’s high time I call them what they are—time travel.

On this icy, Toronto evening I naturally drift through the archives stopping on stunning images from Alaska dated 1900 to 1930. Alaska of the Inuit: as the gold rush hit fever pitch, the rail was built and the territory absorbed by the United States, a time of incredible change and upheaval for the people who called this place home. Explore with me…

Credits: Glenbow Archive, photographs by the Lomen Brothers; Photorarium Archive, photographs by Edward S. Curtis; The Library of Congress Archive.

NEXT TIME: Japan of the Meiji period.

Read more →

What to Eat & Drink: Chicago

 

One of the best things about Chicago, besides the awe inspiring towers, is definitely the food. Here’s a quick recap of what we filled our bellies with.

Incidentally, of the places on our list 4 are owned by the same people**—they’ve got Chicago’s coolest spots covered from brunch to cocktails to fancy eats (I maintain there is a food mafia).

BREAKFAST:
Acme Hotel (Magnificent Mile)
Actually if you’re looking for an affordable and comfortable night’s sleep Acme is a good bet and it’s hard to beat the buffet breakfast. Try: Waffles, pastries and fresh juice.

BRUNCH:
Publican** (West Loop)
If you wanna find hipsters on a Sunday morning, they’ll be tucked into the reclaimed wood booths at Publican in Chicago’s meat packing district. Try: Red wine poached eggs with prosciutto.

LUNCH:
Kuma’s Corner (Avondale)
It’s a bit of a treck to this infamous burger place, but the good thing is that by the time you get there you’ll be starving. I could barely get my hands around these delicious monsters appropriately named after metal bands. Try: The Iron Maiden for avocado goodness or The Slayer topped with ‘anger’!!!

DINNER:
Avec** (West Loop)
Avec is the little sister to award-winning Blackbird, next door. And you can’t go wrong with either. So if you’re looking for something a little more relaxed but with the same level of quality and attention to detail go for Avec Wine Bar. Try: The sharing plates of Chorizo-stuffed medjool dates, Squid ink pasta and Roasted king salmon.

FANCY DRINKS:
The Violet Hour** (Wicker Park)
This speakeasy style bar is hidden (no sign) yet on everyone’s radar and it’s well worth a visit. The cocktails are made to perfection, the vibe is relaxed and just to keep things interesting cellphones are a taboo. It’s a grown-up good time. Try: The Thorn & Rose or the frothy Let’s Wavy if you like tequila.

LATE-NIGHT EATS/NIGHTCAP:
Big Star** (Wicker Park)
Conveniently across the way from The Velvet Hour is Big Star, catering to the after-hours crowd. Dine in or take out on the benches outside. Try: A sipping bourbon from the Four Roses Distillery and the fish tacos (pescado).

DESSERT:
Black Dog Gelato (East Village)
Artisanal gelato made and served by the sweetest Chicago ladies. Best enjoyed at sunset. Aw. Try: The traditional nut and chocolate variations or if you need a kick in the pants there’s Whiskey Gelato.

If by judging by this post it seems that all we did in 4 days in Chicago is eat, it’s probably the truth.

Ok, some culture here as well.

ps. We didn’t make it to this place, but everywhere we went served & sold Intelligentsia Coffee. Bring home a freshly-roasted bag.

Read more →

Photo Gallery: Chicago – Architecture

chicago-a1
Read more →

Tell me about Chicago…

In a week I’ll be spending some time in Chicago with my A-girls.
I’m most excited about seeing the architecture and moving bridges from the river boat tour (will Batman be there?), but I must admit, I don’t know much about this big, American city. Do you?

I’d be grateful for some tips on what to do, and where to eat and hang out.

Read more →

Weekend: New York

Ah, what a weekend. Filled with two basic and lovely things, food and nature.
On the edibles front: when we travel we tend to stay in apartments, buy groceries and sprinkle in some nice restaurant meals. So this time around it was a real splurge to just eat out. Here is a list of places we’d recommend:

BREAKFAST
Cafe Cluny – West Village – A sweet French bistro, where the decor is almost better than the food. Try: Frisée salad with blue cheese, bacon and a poached egg or the short rib hash with eggs and béarnaise sauce.
Prune – East Village – It sure is popular (meaning there is a wait and the tiny space is crammed) but it’s worth the effort. Plus you can grab a fruit shake from a street vendor while you wait in line. Try: The huevos rancheros
Ciao for Now - East Village -  This tiny little gem is the perfect place to tuck into for a quiet breakfast and impeccable service. Try: Grandma Linda’s pancakes, or fresh pastries baked on site

LUNCH
The Windsor – West Village - A bright and cheery sports bar, not usually our scene, but it won us over with yummy apps and cocktails. Try: The beet and watercress salad and a fruity tequila drink, like the cider house rules
Le Pain Quotidien - Multiple locations (I like the Soho one best) – Always reliable for a quick, tasty bite. Try: The heirloom tomato tartine—that’s an open-faced sandwich, the best kind of sandwich in my book 

DINNER
Schiller’s Liquor Bar – Lower East Side – Go for the atmosphere and people watching, but leave with a full belly. Try: The garlic shrimp app and the chicken paillard. (I unfortunately had a tuna steak, but it was doused in a horseradish mayo, and horseradish is enough to ruin any party for me. Thank goodness there was no shortage of deliciousness to be found on the drink and dessert menu)
Flatbush Farm – Park slope, Brooklyn – Such a charming place with a gorgeous, twinkly back patio. Plenty of veggie, local and organic ingredients. Try: The basil cavatelli and top it off with a chocolate mousse banana bread crumble
Kafana – East Village – Newsweek recently compiled a list of 101 best places to eat around the world and surprisingly a Serbian resto in New York made the cut. I can vouch that the food and beer selection are directly transplanted from Belgrade in all their Balkan glory. Try: Cevapi or Karadjordjeva, both carnivorous and delicious.

And then there was nature, which we found in abundance in the concrete NYC jungle.
Starting off, our airbnb apartment looked on to a courtyard, instead of Avenue A, so the first thing we heard every morning were birds. On our first day, we spent a good couple of hours walking along the High Line, the most impressive modern, urban park I’ve ever been to. It stretches from West 13th to 30th in the old railroad path elevated above the city streets, and feels a little like a post-apocalyptic eden. Every few steps there was a new thing to discover, a sweet smell from the tall, exotic grass, a peek into someone’s living room which happened to be at eye level, a mural, or stadium seating with a window to the street. Plus, good eats to be discovered there too. Try: People’s Pops orange blossom popsicle.

Next on the list, naturalement, was Central Park. I highly recommend renting bikes from one of the semi-sketchy guys south of the park with a sign. You can haggle them down to about $15/2hrs and pedal to your hearts content, stumbling on all the wonderful things the park can surprise you with, like a kid giving an impromptu violin concert or seniors dancing the morning away on the edge of Harlem.

And nothing has brought out the kid in me lately like the Museum of Natural History. Bioluminescence, totem poles and dark matter, oh my! I’ve been dying to go for ages, and definitely wasn’t disappointed. Ps. It’s not loudly advertised but, it’s ‘pay what you can’, no including the special exhibits.

Even our NYC shopping was nature inspired. I scored a beautiful floral, neon green dress for a fancy work event and a multicolored blazer that looks like a meadow exploded on it from Top Shop. And no trip to this city is complete without a visit to Strand. This time a David Shrigley monograph nearly jumped into my arms.

I couldn’t ask for a better birthday weekend, thanks Ken.

////\\\\////\\\\////
If you missed them, here are some posts from previous trips to New York:
With my bff Julie / For the McQueen show at the MET / Plus: What to pack / What to buy

Read more →

New York rendez-vous

We’re just a quick Porter flight away from a New York long weekend. The dream place to celebrate (a big! eek!) birthday. Believe it or not Ken and I have never been to New York together. Only separately, for work, for pleasure, for art shows, but never the two of us. So it will be a special treat to be living in our little East Village studio (yay Airbnb) for 4 nights and indulging in New York’s charms.

More details to come when we return, but maybe there will be an Instagram update or two in the meanwhile.

Oh, and if you know of a great show going on this weekend or a recent food discovery—do the right thing, drop us a line below.

(photo by ex-New Yorker, Kate Miss)

Read more →

Eastman House, Rochester

east1

After a particularly weird week, it became necessary to get away, mentally and physically, so what better time to see an out of the way museum. George Eastman House (aka the Kodak Photography Museum) in Rochester has been in the back of my mind for a while, and now that Kodak is having financial troubles [...]

Read more →

Best homes away from home

hostel

Here’s a compilation of the coziest, most unique places I’ve ever laid my head to rest on my travels. The best HOSTEL: Hosteling International in Husey, Iceland PRICE: $20/night (private room), horse back riding additional This one farm ‘town’ is barely a dot on the map. It’s enveloped in fog and feels like the end [...]

Read more →

BEST OF…dessert shops (part 1)

desserts

1. Magnolia Bakery, New York
Taste-tested: Red velvet & chocolate cupcakes

2. Gelateria Centrale, Riomaggiore, Italy
My fave: Lemon, cappuccino & pistachio flavours

3. De Bonte Koe chocolate factory, Schiedam, Netherlands
I recommend: Chocolate truffles

Read more →