We were lucky enough to stay with wonderful friends (Jadranka and her 3 boys) in a leafy-green, residential neighbourhood of Rotterdam. On the day we visited ‘s-Hertogenbosch (Den Bosch) the town was silent. I don’t know if it was the time of year, or because it was mid-week, but the streets were almost empty. Left alone for us to explore was this deep grey, fortified city filled with churches, stone statues and cobblestones. I populated my imagination with the grotesque characters of Hieronymus Bosch, who hails from the place.